I was chatting with friends the other day about Sun-In. I don’t know how it came up, but all of a sudden we were talking about that wicked wicked product that should have contained a warning label reading: if you are even a little brunette this product will turn your hair a color not found in nature, not even at the Jersey Shore.
But Sun-In aside I have had some tricky experiences with hair color. It’s ended up too light, too dark, too streaky, not streaky enough (it was my Flaming Lips phase). That’s why we chatted with our dear friend Theresa Hayden, the celebrity colorist at Pierre Michel salon in Manhattan about how we (and now you) can best communicate with our colorist to achieve pitch perfect color.
As a model we used HollywoodLife uber-publicist (and also Lock & Mane bestie) Marigo Mihalos, who recently ran through this gamut with Theresa. She can vouch that opening the lines of communication worked out. Her locks look gorg!
L&M: What is the best way to approach your stylist about getting the right color for your hair?
Theresa: When you tell your colorist you want to go lighter for spring/summer you should be telling them that want a brighter summer look that will go with your eye color and skin tone that will make you hair come alive.
L&M: OK sounds great, but how are they able to achieve this?
Theresa: Make sure to specify to your colorist you only want to go one shade or a mix between one and two shades lighter than you natural hair color. That way the contrast brings out the natural highlights you already have in your hair and gives you a natural sunkissed looked that you are aiming for. I do not add any artificial pigment to the color, just use something a little lighter and you will see that it will brighten the color overall. If you want to open up the eyes and cheekbones, your colorist should place highlights at the temple and the frame of your face.
L&M: How do I avoid the ‘brassy’ color that everyone dreads?
Theresa: This is something your colorist needs to watch carefully. The time spent on the coloring process will determine the shade. You need to talk to your colorist and let him or her know this is something you want to avoid. Also watch your own watch and don’t be afraid to “check in” with the colorist or assistant to take a look at your processing locks. Once your colorist has achieved your desired color, you should be using shampoo and conditioner with a beta-carotene as well as a sunscreen for color treated hair.
L&M: What is the difference between getting Balayage or Foils?
Theresa: The word Balayage means “to paint” so the colorist will paint the highlights freehand. With the traditional foils you can place the highlights strategically to open up the eyes and cheekbones, work with the haircut to bring out angles, or to lighten overall and have more of a summer look. Neither of these options are better than the other, most colorists are trained in one method and they create a different look, but you should know the difference so that you can direct your colorist properly about what YOU want.
L&M: What’s the best way to transition from brunette to blonde?
Theresa: The best way to start the transition to blonde from a brunette is over multiple sessions in a longer span of time. This will help to eliminate the potential “roots” problem that so many women find. The highlights look MUCH more natural growing out. However, if you want to make the transition in one process they will be adding a full crown of highlights that you will need to maintain more frequently.
L&M: When you are getting blonde highlights, what is the difference between the lightening options, and is there a better choice?
Theresa: Yes, there are different options. Your colorist will either choose to use a hair color one lighter shade than your own, or they can use one of two types of bleach, powder or oil. Oil is 100% the better option when highlighting. The powder strips your hair of color and nutrients and leaves your hair dry and brittle. The oil is a much milder version that allows the colorist to have a lot more control over the outcome of, it removes the color but leaves your hair bouncier and shinier than the powder version.